excerpt is from NYMag.com
Food Writing: The Lowliest Form of Criticism?

Is this not a form of art?Photo: Melissa Hom
"What is the role of the food and drink critic?" Clay Risen muses in Atlantic's online Food channel after downing a publicist-arranged snifter of $38,000-a-bottle scotch and feeling some ethical qualms. "Let's face it: readers aren't looking for an intellectual discussion of a restaurant's spaghetti alle vongole — they just want to know if it's worth the extra clams." Next to more objective cultural experiences like dance, art, or literature, writing critically about food is hardly comparable, says Risen: "The good critic needs an exceptional palate to be of real service. But Sontag it ain't." Burn!
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The debate continues on the Atlantic monthly blog: Critiquing the Critics
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